I was here 13 years ago. I was a lot younger and the City much quieter. I remember that for a nickel and a dime you could fall into a luxurious seat on a cyclo and have yourself taxied through the entire city as if you were in a film. Life in Hanoi silently passed by, only disturbed by the constant ringing of bicycle bells.

That has somewhat changed. Apart of the obvious glorification of the good old days, it is absolutely clear that "development" has landed in Hanoi. All the bikes have been replaced by scooters. 13 years is a long time so it seems. Dust caps are needed here nowadays. Progress has a high price.

Other things haven't changed and one afternoon I have an unusual lunch with my new Vietnamese friend Duong. We're eating cobra. Before we can eat the meat we have to drink the blood and bile of the snake. The still beating heart passes round the table to the oldest man present, who has 'the honour' to eat it. In the far distance we can hear the cacophony of controlled chaos.